For some families, the idea of having brunch surrounded by a menagerie of trinkets and treasures is the perfect way to start the day, for others it sounds like a "put that down!" nightmare. So it goes at Winslow’s Home, 7211 Delmar Blvd., where one mom’s treasure is another mom’s anxiety attack. Winslow's Home is perfect for families with children ages 4 and older who can wander within eyeshot and explore, but families with new walkers or curious toddlers might want to pass (plus, there were no high-chairs at my recent visit).

One part general store, one part restaurant, Winslow’s Home fills a unique niche in its University City neighborhood. Selling everything from housewares to gardening supplies to handmade soaps and hand lotions, you can find just about anything you need there. There aren’t many stores in St. Louis where French stationery shares counter space with duct tape and Charleston Chews.

But the back of the building is where the true treasures await. Winslow’s kitchen serves breakfast, lunch and dinner everyday but Monday. A reflection of the management’s dedication to fresh, local, sustainable foods, the menu is loaded with ingredients from its farm in Augusta, Mo. A bountiful herb garden on site, locally sourced produce, meats, farm fresh eggs and made-from-scratch baked goods round out the offerings. Before you even step to the counter to place your order, eating at Winslow’s Home feels good.

Since my mission was to review brunch, I’ll have to resist the urge to extol the gourmet offerings from its carryout case (Cucumber avocado soup for dinner? Don’t mind if I do!) or its wine selection. A full line of made-to-order coffee drinks and hot chocolate  ($1-$3.75) will get you off on the right foot. Take your drinks back to a smattering of cool mismatched tables and chairs scattered throughout the store (including one eight-top perfect for big groups) to wait for your order to be delivered. A large patio is perfect for warmer days or families worried about their little ones being too distracted by the curiosities inside.

Brunch at Winslow’s home isn’t like bellying up to the counter at your local diner. For starters, you won’t find a five-page menu of breakfast standards to choose from. There are four morning dishes (plus some sides) available everyday and four more items available for weekend brunch. All dishes change regularly based on season and availability, but never fail to cover the breakfast basics—savory and sweet, protein and carbs.

"Everyday" morning dishes include a scrambled egg sandwich on grilled ciabatta with spinach, white cheddar and crispy bacon; it's hot, crispy and satisfying. Oatmeal piping hot is served with a variety of toppings (peaches on one visit; dried cherries, pistachios and brown sugar on the next) and is the perfect breakfast comfort food. Pancakes with blueberries and a quiche round out the daily made-to-order offerings. Bagels and yogurt parfait are also available, not to mention a variety of homemade baked goods. Pie (blackberry/raspberry was available at a recent visit), lime shortbread, lemon-ginger scones, goat cheese cookies (like gooey butter cookies, but better) and classics, such as blueberry muffins and chocolate chip cookies are impossible to resist.

With the weekend, comes a bit of variety. A frittata, breakfast burrito, rolled omelet and French toast are standard, but each gets their own unique spin from week to week. We enjoyed a perfectly done frittata with house-made brisket, brie and arugula; a rolled omelet with heirloom tomatoes, fontina and basil; a breakfast burrito with eggs, spinach and habanera peach salsa; and French toast with bananas and bacon.

But the gourmet offerings and prime ingredients come at a price. Winslow’s Home is not the cheapest family brunch spot in town. Dishes range from $6 (oatmeal or French toast) to $9.50 (for the aforementioned frittata). And orange juice -- fresh-squeezed, of course -- will set you back $3. There are no specific brunch kids meals to speak of, though you’d be hard-pressed to find a kid that didn’t like pancakes, yogurt, or oatmeal and the kitchen is happy to oblige picky eaters or those with food allergies. But would-be diners take heart: many dishes (especially the breakfast sandwich, burrito and rolled omelet) lend themselves to sharing. And while you could hit up fast-food diner for a $2.99 breakfast plate, you wouldn’t leave with the satisfaction of having had fresh, all-natural food from a local, family-owned restaurant.

Location:
Winslow's Home
7211 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, Mo., 63130
314-725-7559

Winslow's Home is open Tuesday through Friday from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m., Saturday from 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. and Sunday from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Breakfast items are served until 2 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday.

After living and writing in St. Louis for almost 15 years, Meredith Boggess has plenty of good things to share about her adopted hometown. She and her husband recently welcomed their first daughter into their home on The Hill, and, despite the sleepless nights, they are still awash in that new parent glow. Contact Meredith at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it

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